Jacquemus FW 19
Simon Ports Jacquemus channels a pastoral nostalgia in his fall 2019 menswear collection. Drawing inspiration from traditional French workwear, it’s both like a strong compliment to and bold departure from the balmy, sun-soaked personality of his Marseille-inspired collection.
With a pragmatic minimalism infused with life, the rich earthy hues feel like they’ve been excavated from countryside itself. Even a suit doesn’t feel out of place, looking more like an authentic breath of fresh, mountain air rather than Red Carpet couture. The material looks so natural it could be sourced from the same place its worn. This all makes the collection feel grounded. However, it’s the subtle details of this collection that make it an earnest tribute to rural life.
Bold stitching, mismatched fabrics, and relaxed silhouettes are the nostalgic soul of this collection. While each piece still feels polished and high end, these little accents add a boyish charm. They look reinforced and well-loved, like two favorite pairs of pants stitched together to preserve their lifespan despite the many rips, tears, and stains that could no longer be mended. Even the delicate rosemary print, reminiscent of a vintage botanical pressing, can hold its own as New York worthy streetwear. Despite all of this, leather is the bit that holds it all together. Sparse and effective, it ties it all together, it serves more as proof of necessity rather than a lifestyle choice.
While nostalgia continues to dominate the fashion scene, Jacquemus brings us back to his childhood in a way that isn’t forced. Instead, each piece seems almost lifted from old photographs found on the wall of a family home. Overall, it’s a beautiful homage to a world urbanites crave to see in our fast-paced, ever-changing world.
*all photos are sourced from Vogue. Photo: Bruno Staub / Courtesy of Jacquemus